Final sanding with 100-150 grit paper               Tacking the floor with mineral spirits 
                                                                                                       gives you a “preview” of what your   
                                                                                                       finished  floor will look like.
Preparing Your Surface
Preparation is the most important (and most time-consuming) step in finishing your wood floor.
                                                                                                                            
Sanding:
New floors or floors previously coated with polyurethane should be sanded before finishing with Waterlox.  Sanding should result in a smooth, clean surface without swirl marks. Any flaws will only stand out more clearly when the floor is finished. Final sanding should be done with 100 to 150 grit paper. We feel that sanding a wood floor is an art.  Belt and drum sanders can easily gouge your floors, and orbital and rotary sanding machines take a long time and can leave swirl marks.  Like people who think that they can cut their own hair, for an inexperienced operator, the results can be disappointing.  Hiring a professional to handle the sanding could be money well spent! Then you can save the fun part for yourself … applying Waterlox, of course!

Dust removal:
All wood dust and grit resulting from the sanding operations must be removed before applying the finish. The importance of this cannot be overemphasized.  Using a vacuum sweeper, vacuum with the grain and across the grain. Finally, wiping the floor with a clean lint-free rag wetted with mineral spirits or paint thinner will also aid in the removal of any residual dust. We DO NOT recommend using a commercially available “tack cloth” as some contain silicone or other ingredients  that may interfere with Waterlox adhering.

Tip: Before applying the finish, you may wish to wipe down the floor with a thin coat of paint thinner. The color and tone that you see while the floor is wet give you a “preview” of what your finished floor will look like and give you a chance to correct any imperfections. Make sure that you have adequate ventilation.

Staining your floor:
In situations where personal preference requires a change in wood color/tone, a stain can be used.  We recommend using an old-fashioned, oil-based stain that DOES NOT contain urethane. Minwax, Zar, and Duraseal are all adequate choices. It is recommended that the stain and/or stain mixture be tested on a piece of scrap wood or an inconspicuous area of the floor and followed by the subsequent coats of  Waterlox Original finishes.   There are two basic methods for adding color to the wood surface:

1. Staining before finishing with Waterlox Original finishes
You may stain the floor following the manufacturer’s directions for cure time or wait 72 hours, 
whichever is longer, before applying coats of Waterlox Original finishes.

2. Adding stain to Waterlox. 
Many of our customers have great results by adding  stain to their first coat(s) of Waterlox Original Sealer/FinishOriginal Sealer/Finish  (up to a MAXIMUM ratio of 4:1 Waterlox/stain). This method of staining eliminates a separate step and provides  a  smooth, even color change even on soft woods like pine, which can become blotchy.    Simply brush on the mixture and let it dry--wiping off is not required.  This works well if you desire a subtle tone. We do not reccomend this method if you want a very dark stain on the floor.

Tip: Make a record of the amount of stain used per gallon so that the procedure can be repeated later if necessary. Tip: You can add stain only to our Original Sealer/Finish and only to the first coat. Tip:  Waterlox Original Tung Oil products produce a slight “patina” or amber  coloration to most woods. Try finishing a test area before staining your wood floor…you may find that Waterlox alone makes your floor look so beautiful that you’ll want to forgo staining altogether!