How should I store Waterlox to prevent it from drying out?
An unopened or partially-used can of Waterlox has an indefinite shelf life. However, Waterlox dries through oxidation. When a container is opened, it is exposed to more oxygen. When the container is opened and the product is used, the remaining unused portion begins to oxidize. Oxidation is the same thing that makes red wine go bad once it is opened. Be it fine wine or Waterlox, when you buy the very best, it is expensive. We want you to use every drop of Waterlox Tung Oil products on your beautiful wood floors and furniture, NOT have it dry out while sitting in the can! For the best results, pour out the Waterlox that you need to do the job and promptly reseal the container (replace both the metal seal and screw top). It is also a good idea to remove the oxygen in the can by any one of the methods discussed below. It may seem like a lot of fuss, but hey, we're talking about WATERLOX here! Lots of our customers tell us that they transfer unused portions of Waterlox to smaller, air-tight, tightly sealed jars or cans, or raise the level in the original container by adding clean marbles or clean stones to the container. You can even squeeze the sides of the can together to move the liquid to the top of the can, displacing the oxygen. There is also a product called Bloxygen, which is an inert gas that displaces the oxygen to the container. We sell it, and it works! (If you save just one half of a can of our product, it pays for itself!) We even had a guy tell us that he blows into the can (you exhale carbon dioxide) I don't know if we want to get that "up close and personal" with our products, but you get the idea: less oxygen = better Waterlox.
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What is the dry/cure time of Waterlox Processed Tung Oil Finishes?
The first 3-7 days are the most critical after applying Waterlox Tung Oil Finishes, so please adhere to the following practices:
What do I need to know about ventilation during the application and drying process?
Proper ventilation and air circulation must be provided when using any wood finishing materials. It is not recommended that any solvents or solvent-based materials be used in an enclosed area. The aid of fans and open doors and windows is strongly recommended. Read directions on label completely before using. Lingering solvent odor indicates either inadequate ventilation or high humidity, which causes slower drying time.
What about staining my wood surface?
For flooring: it is recommended that the stain and/or stain mixture be tested on a piece of scrap wood or an inconspicuous area of the floor and followed by the subsequent coats of Waterlox Original Finishes (most hardwoods require 3 coats of our Waterlox Original Finishes. Softer woods like Pine or Douglas fir require 4 coats at 500 square feet per gallon per coat) before beginning an entire project. An unstained floor finished with Waterlox Original Finishes produces an old-fashioned, hand-rubbed looking floor. Our special formula based in tung oil produces a natural patina.
Do I need to sand between coats of Waterlox Tung Oil Finishes?
Sanding for adhesion purposes is not necessary between coats of Waterlox Original Finishes. A light sanding with steel wool (#4/0), a pole sander with fine sand paper (150 grit or finer), or a 3M white pad can be used for aesthetic reasons (e.g., to remove dust, hair, footprints, or other imperfections from the film after it has dried). Waterlox Original Finishes have superior inter-coat adhesion properties unlike urethanes, which need to be screened, sanded, or scuffed between coats for adhesion purposes.
How do Waterlox Original Finishes compare to urethanes?
Waterlox forms a protective finish that won't chip, peel, crack, or wrinkle. Waterlox never requires sanding for adhesion purposes. Touch-ups can be done at any time without sanding. Unlike urethanes that lie on top of the wood surface, Waterlox finishes penetrate deep into the wood pores forming a bond from within. This penetrating feature gives the wood an "open pore look" that is desired by many people seeking a natural wood surface.
How do I care for or maintain a wood surface finished with Waterlox Original Finishes?
Wait until your floor/woodwork has dried and cured before you use any cleaning products on the surface (we normally suggest 7 days). For floors, we recommend using a vacuum, broom, damp mop, or a Swiffer® on the surface as needed. When a heavier cleaning is required we suggest:
Ø WATERLOX CLEANER CONCENTRATE (following the directions on the label)
Ø
A damp mop with a mixture of 2 oz. of white vinegar to 1 gallon of water
Ø Non-abrasive, diluted household cleaner (stay away from ammonia products)
Ø Murphy’s Oil Soap® can be used and will also tend to reduce the gloss.
Avoid ammonia-based cleaners and products containing wax or acrylics, and try to prevent water from pooling or standing on the surface for a long periods of time.
If scuffs occurs, (usually shoe marks), and they do not disappear after cleaning, they can usually be removed with some mineral spirits rubbed on with a rag. You can also use Goo Gone® or another product containing “di-limeoline.” Do NOT use Goof-Off®.
We recommend against using wax. We believe that wax creates maintenance issues, scuffs easily, leaves water spots, and attracts dirt. Wax also makes it difficult to recoat your floor with Waterlox when necessary. You are far better off putting down a “refresher coat” of Waterlox when/if needed.
My new Waterlox Finish is peeling off the surface--what is wrong?
There is probably wax or another substance on the floor that will not allow the Waterlox to adhere. Strip the wood with ammonia and water first and then sand the floors before applying finish to them.