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Waterlox - Since 1916 Premium wood Finish - Hand Made From Tung Oil
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General questions about Waterlox

Waterlox on wood floors

Waterlox on furniture, cabinets and counter top

Exterior Marine
 
 

                    

How is Waterlox different from other floor finishes?

Raw Tung Oil and Danish Oil: Waterlox Original Tung Oil Finishes are not drying oils; they are fully cooked varnishes, which dry quicker and form permanent films tough enough to walk on and take daily abuse. Waterlox Tung Oil Finishes are also waterproof and chemical resistant (alcohol and alkali), while raw tung oil and Danish oil will water spot.

Linseed Oil: Waterlox provides deeper penetration to seal wood fibers beneath the surface. Waterlox is waterproof and will not water spot like linseed oil.

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How many coats of Waterlox Original finish are needed to finish a floor?

The general rule is as follows. The amount of coats needed is dependent on the species of wood. Woods like cherry, oak, walnut, and chestnut require 3 coats of our Waterlox Original products. Softer woods like pine and Douglas fir require 4 coats, and harder woods like maple may require 2 coats.

Waterlox Original finishes should be spread at a rate of 500 square feet per gallon per coat using a lambswool applicator pad. This is important because the Waterlox Original products penetrate into the wood surface, and 3 to 4 coats are required to give proper water protection as well as film build up, leveling, and flow.

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How do I calculate the amount of Waterlox Processed Tung Oil Finish I will need to finish my hardwood floor?

To determine the amount of finish needed, simply multiply the square footage of the hardwood floor times the amount of coats needed (most hardwoods require 3 coats of our Waterlox Original products. Softer woods like pine or Douglas fir require 4 coats at 500 square feet per gallon per coat) and divide by 500. We have made it easy for you with this handy materials calculator.

Example: 3,000 square feet of cherry: 3,000 square feet x 3 coats= 9,000 total square feet/500 square feet per gallon per coat = 18 gallons of Waterlox Original Finish.

Example: 3,000 square feet of Pine: 3,000 square feet x 4 coats = 12,000 total square feet/500 square feet per gallon per coat = 24 gallons of Waterlox Original Finish. 

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What about staining my wood floor?


As for staining and Waterlox, you can use any type of stain... we do, however, recommend using an old-fashioned oil-based stain that DOES NOT contain urethane. Minwax, Zar, and Duraseal are all adequate choices.

There are
2 basic methods for adding color to the wood surface:

1.
Staining before finishing with Waterlox Original finishes: You may stain the floor following the manufacturer’s directions for cure time or wait 72 hours, whichever is longer, before applying coats of Waterlox  Original Finishes.

2. Adding stain to your first coat of Waterlox Original finishes: You can also add stain to your first coat of Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish (up to a ratio of 4:1 Waterlox/stain. This method of staining eliminates a separate step and provides a smooth, even color change even on soft woods like pine which normally become blotchy.  Simply brush on the mixture and let it dry-- wiping off is not required.

Waterlox Original Tung Oil Finishes produce a slight “patina” or amber coloration that brings out the character of woods. Try finishing a test area before staining …You may find that Waterlox alone makes your wood look so beautiful that you’ll want to forgo staining altogether.

The first coat looks uneven, rough, blotchy.  What did I do wrong?


Waterlox finishes penetrate and coat the wood. It is not unusual for the first coat and, in the case of very soft woods, the second coat, to be partially absorbed into the wood. Subsequent coats will build up a film and give you a smooth finish.

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