Repair, restore and/or recoat of a Waterlox finished surface.

Another benefit of Waterlox Original Resin-Modified Tung oil finishes is that they are tough enough to protect against foot traffic, moisture, common household spills and are easier to maintain than other types of surface finishes or raw oils.

Our motto at Waterlox is: “Not everything is fixable; but at least with Waterlox you have a chance.” As your surface ages, complete the following to freshen it up.

Scratches and Scuffs: Waterlox Original Resin-Modified Tung oil finishes are penetrating oil finishes which penetrate into the wood pores and build up to a film. One of their benefits to being used on working surfaces is that they are elastic and forgiving. When applied according to our recommendations, your surfaces will wear and scratch with normal everyday use, but because the finish is part of the wood, you may not be able to see them as much as you would in a surface finish that will scratch white. To fix scratches and/or high wear areas in your floor, you have two choices:

  1. You can do nothing at this time. One of the phenomenon’s of Waterlox Original Tung oil finishes is that sometimes scratches or imperfections have a way of working their way out on their own through time.
  2. You can apply more of the finish you used in your last coat to the surface by hand wiping/feathering the coat with a lint-free/microfiber cloth and letting it dry for 24 hours.

Deep Gouges: Use a fine paint brush or Q-Tip® to “fill” in the deep scratches by building them up. Keep in mind that the gloss level of Waterlox Original Tung oil finishes softens over time; therefore, any repair may be shinier than the rest of the surface when initially completed. After the repair has been allowed to cure it will become less noticeable.

Black Heel Marks: Black heel marks are what’s known as a transfer of material and the material has actually been transferred to the coating. To repair, remove the mark with a rag dampened with mineral spirits.

Recoat: One of the major benefits of Waterlox is that it can be refreshed by simply adding a fresh coat of Waterlox without having to re-sand to bare wood.

  1. If the last coat applied was our Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish, you will want to clean the surface with TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) and water, let dry. Do a clear-water rinse, let dry. Then, re-coat.
  2. If the last coat applied was our Waterlox Original Satin Finish, you will want to clean the surface with TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) and water, let dry. Do a clear-water rinse, let dry. Next, pad the floor with a Maroon pad and tack the floor to remove any residual sanding dust with regular mineral spirits. Then, re-coat.

If for some reason it becomes necessary to re-coat a Waterlox Original Tung oil finished surface with another type of coating, you can apply a surface finish over top of our Waterlox Original Resin-Modified Tung oil finishes by following the same procedures as described above.

Since all types of finishing scenarios cannot be tested, the only fail-safe way to ensure that there won’t be an inter-coat adhesion issue is to conduct a cross-hatch test.

A cross-hatch test is an industry test for adhesion. Waterlox Original Resin-Modified Tung oil finishes are penetrating oil finishes and are therefore best used on bare wood (does not refer to stain coat(s) if used). Sometimes, sanding the surface is not an option for a project. To test the adhesion properties of a combination of finishes, test on an inconspicuous area first.

Directions to test for adhesion: Scuff sand a small inconspicuous area with 320 grit sandpaper. If you will not be sanding the surface to bare wood in the actual project, clean the area with TSP (trisodium phosphate) and water and complete a clear water rinse. Apply 1 coat of Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish. Allow the finish to cure for 4 days. Scratch a “tic-tac-toe” board into the cured finish by cutting through the film with a craft knife or box cutter blade. Be careful not to cut into the wood. Place a piece of clear adhesive tape (e.g.: Scotch® tape) over the cross-hatch and press it down firmly with your finger(s). Pull one end of the tape off with a steady motion. If there is any film on the tape, other than the pattern of cuts you made into the substrate, this finish combination will not have adequate adhesion.

If the test fails, proper sanding of the surface down to bare wood, or chemical stripping of the previous finish will need to be performed before applying Waterlox Original Resin-Modified Tung oil finishes.

Cross-hatch tape test

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