In general, there are two types of finishes, film-formers and penetrating oils. Film-forming finishes tend to dry into clear, hard films regardless of the substrate that they are applied. Penetrating oils tend to dry slowly and into soft, cloudy films when applied to a non-porous surface (like glass) and work best when they can penetrate … Previously Finished with Non-Waterlox Products
Wood countertops are very popular and many customers have discovered that Waterlox Original Tung oil finishes are a perfect solution for this type of project. We view a countertop as a miniature floor when recommending application, spread rate, dry times, etc. therefore, you may want to view those FAQs throughout the site or give us … Penetrating oil compatibility with Waterlox®.
Clear wood finishes that protect outdoor surfaces with direct sun exposure face a very difficult task. The regular and chronic UV exposure and expansion and contraction of wood surfaces as the seasons and weather change, create a very difficult environment for coatings. Waterlox does offer the MARINE and PURE Tung Oil product lines that can work on … Outdoor Projects in Direct Sunlight
If you have old cans of Waterlox products sitting around, there is a good chance that it is still perfectly usable product, regardless of how old it is. The Waterlox products dry and cure through exposure to oxygen and they are fully reacted together to form one uniform liquid, so they will not slowly separate … Old Cans of Waterlox®
When finishing a project and selecting a finish, one important factor is the number of coats required to complete the project. The important thing to remember is that the number of coats is only half of the actual equation when it comes to finishing a project. The other half of that equation is spread rate. … Number of Coats for Your Project
This phenomenon happens when either something is on the surface or a previous coat has not dried. The next coat cannot “wet” the surface so the finish pulls or puddles and will not flow out. This phenomenon may be caused by the following factors: Fish-eyeing. The first example of fish-eyeing is caused by applying a coating over something with a … Non-Wetting Troubleshooting
Waterlox products do not contain any mold or mildew killing/controlling additives. If you are using our finishes in mildew prone areas (dark and damp), you may want to consider some mold/mildew prevention steps. Notable areas of concern would be some porch ceilings, exposed but shady areas on outdoor surfaces, underside of outdoor furniture, etc. Starting … Mold and Mildew and Waterlox
Our Marine finishing system is recommended for use outdoors in areas that have direct UV exposure. As the gloss begins to fade on the Marine Finish, this is the key to knowing that its time to re-coat. For the grey/darkened areas, you’ll want to wipe them with Mineral Spirits to determine if they turn black … Maintenance of Waterlox Original Marine Finish outdoors.
In general, all Waterlox products are permanent coatings. This means that they will not disappear on their own. With wear and tear, eventually all coatings will disappear and require some form of maintenance in their lifetimes. Interior Projects All of our interior products will produce long-lasting results. On projects like ceiling beams, fine/decorative furniture or … Lifespan and Recoating Frequency of Waterlox® Products
We DO NOT recommend adding any drier accelerants or Japan Driers into any Waterlox products. In actuality, the drying of Waterlox is relatively quick for a conventional solvent-based product and most surfaces are dry within a few hours. The real concern is about getting a proper cure of each layer. See the drying, curing and … Japan Driers or Accelerating Drying
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